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| Review Article, Biomed Biopharm Res., 2023; 20(2):143-160 doi: 10.19277/bbr.20.2.328; Bilingual PDF [+]; Portuguese html [PT] |
Natural Ingredients in Skincare: A Scoping Review of Efficacy and Benefits
Sara Gonçalves 1,2,3 
✉️ & Isabel Gaivão 1,2
1 - Department of Genetics and Biotechnology and CECAV, University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, 5000-801 Vila Real, Portugal
2 - Associate Laboratory for Animal and Veterinary Sciences (AL4AnimalS), Portugal
3 - Academic Clinical Center of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro - Professor Dr. Nuno Grande – CACTMAD, 5000-801 Vila Real, Portugal
Abstract
The search for safe, durable and effective skincare products has increased the popularity of natural products. Traditional skin care practices across cultures use plant, mineral and animal derivatives believed to provide benefits such as moisturising, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. However, with the abundance of skincare products claiming to contain natural ingredients, it is crucial to evaluate the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and benefits critically. This scoping review aims to comprehensively review the effectiveness and benefits of natural skin care products. This study attempts to explain the impact of existing literature results and the collection of skin health attributes, such as hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, pigmentation, and overall skin appearance. A rigorous search of the databases will identify relevant searches, followed by quality assessment and data extraction. After thorough quality assessments and data extraction, we found many natural ingredients, from botanical extracts to essential oils, demonstrate promising effects on skin health. Notable findings include the potential to be used as a sunscreen agent and antioxidant properties of Viola odorata (sweet violet) flower extracts, the potential cosmetic applications of Hypericum species, and the effectiveness of fermented jasmine rice in promoting skin health. In conclusion, this review aims to comprehensively examine the scientific evidence on skin's natural properties.
Keywords: Natural ingredients, efficacy, benefits, cosmetics, skincare
To Cite: .Gonçalves, S. & Gaivão, I. (2023) Natural Ingredients in Skincare: A Scoping Review of Efficacy and Benefits. Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research, 20(2),143-160.
Author Correspondence:
Received: 15/09/2023; Accepted: 14/12/2023
Introduction
Natural ingredients in skin care products have become increasingly popular in recent years due to consumer demand for safe, sustainable, effective ingredients for use in cosmetic products. (1). Natural products derived from plants, minerals and animals have been used in traditional skincare routines in various cultures for centuries (2). Their perceived multifaceted benefits to enhance skin health, such as moisturising, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, make a compelling case for their inclusion in cosmetic products today (3,4).
As many skin care products claim to be natural or include ingredients derived from nature, a review of the scientific evidence supporting their effectiveness and benefits is an essential step in further developing skin care products. By systematically reviewing and assembling the existing recent literature, this review aims to answer critical questions about the effects of natural products on skin health aspects such as hydration in terms of thickness, wrinkles, rich colouration, and general appearance of the skin.
As the popularity of natural skin care products grows, the definition of 'natural' becomes a crucial point of contention from a consumer perspective and in regulatory and economic contexts. The Guidelines on Technical Definitions and Criteria for Natural and Organic Cosmetic Ingredients and Products ISO_16128 (1 and 2), published in 2016 and 2017, have represented significant advancements in consumer protection (5,6).
Natural cosmetics are products that must incorporate at least one ingredient "derived from" a natural source, directly extracted from a plant or mineral rather than being artificially synthesized. While natural cosmetics may contain percentages of organic ingredients, it's important to note that a natural product is not inherently an organic product (7). An organic cosmetic is required to consist of a minimum of 95% certified organic ingredients in its formulation. These ingredients are sourced from certified crops and extraction processes, emphasizing biodegradability and maintaining the most natural chemical characteristics. The remaining 5% of the formulation can include water, natural raw materials from agriculture, or non-certified permissible extracts suitable for organic formulations (7-10).
Given the widespread use of the term 'natural' in skincare products and including natural ingredients, a comprehensive review of the scientific evidence supporting their effectiveness is imperative. By systematically reviewing and synthesising recent literature, this study addresses critical questions regarding the effects of natural products on various aspects of skin health, including hydration, thickness, wrinkles, pigmentation, and overall skin appearance.
Together, this scoping review of the available evidence will contribute to the current knowledge of the effectiveness and benefits of natural skin care products. Through a rigorous research design, this research will evaluate the existing literature, identifying evidence strengths and limitations. It will help identify gaps in the literature and areas for future research. Furthermore, the findings of this study will help consumers make informed decisions about skin care products and guide industry professionals in developing evidence-based, effective and safe skin care products incorporating natural ingredients.
Methods
Research Framework
The study proposes a qualitative methodology through a literature review, enabling us to identify, evaluate and interpret studies related to a specific thematic area.
Research question
The determination of the research question was used to define the scope to develop a clear focus for the study. This research question was developed in response to the needs of the chosen topic, namely:
RQ: What scientific evidence supports the efficacy and benefits of natural ingredients in skincare products?
Literature search
To address the research objectives of this study, a comprehensive literature search was conducted to identify relevant articles related to the scientific evidence that supports the efficacy and benefits of natural ingredients in skincare products. The search was performed in the following databases: Google Scholar, PubMed, Scopus and b-on. These databases were selected based on their coverage of relevant fields, including chemistry and cosmetic science.
The search terms were developed through an iterative process, considering the key concepts of natural ingredients, benefits, and efficacy context. The following keywords and search terms were used "natural ingredients", "botanical extracts", "herbal derivatives", "essential oils", "plant-based compounds", "skincare", "cosmetic", "topical formulation", "beauty products", "efficacy", "effectiveness, "performance", "outcomes", "benefits", "advantages", "positive effects", "improvements" and several combinations of these keywords.
The search was executed in the selected databases, initially retrieving a total of 727 articles across all databases. Duplicate articles were removed, resulting in a preliminary pool of 689 unique articles. The search included peer-reviewed articles published between 2014 and 2024 written in English or Portuguese, the researchers' languages.
Titles and abstracts of the articles were reviewed to identify potentially relevant studies. Articles irrelevant to the research topic were excluded at this stage, leading to a refined set of 172 articles. Full-text access to these articles was obtained through institutional subscriptions and interlibrary loan services when necessary.
The search process and the inclusion of articles were documented and tracked using reference management software. The entire search process is summarised in a flowchart (Figure 1), illustrating the number of articles identified, screened, and included at each stage by the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines (11).
| Figure 1 - Diagram of article selection and inclusion process on the PRISMA methodology (11). |
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Inclusion criteria
Studies collected for analysis should: [1] Include randomised controlled trials (RCTs), quasi-experimental studies, cohort studies, case-control studies, and cross-sectional studies. Systematic reviews and meta-analyses that meet the objectives of your review can also be included. [2] Include studies involving human participants of any age, gender, or ethnicity. Include studies with participants representing different skin types, conditions, or concerns. [3] Include studies that evaluate the effects of natural ingredients or naturally derived compounds commonly used in skincare products. [4]Studies that include a comparison group, such as a placebo, control, or alternative treatment. [5] Include studies that report outcomes related to the efficacy and benefits of natural ingredients in skincare, such as hydration levels, skin elasticity, reduction in wrinkles or fine lines, improvement in skin tone, reduction in hyperpigmentation, or overall improvement in skin appearance.
Exclusion criteria
Studies collected for analysis should: [1] Exclude conference abstracts, editorials, letters, opinion pieces, books, book chapters, and unpublished studies; [2]Exclude studies conducted on animals or that do not involve human participants; [3] Exclude studies that assess synthetic ingredients or interventions that do not align with the natural ingredient focus of this review; [4] Exclude studies that do not report outcomes specifically related to the efficacy and benefits of natural ingredients in skincare.
After applying these criteria, we obtained 64 articles for analysis. (Supplementary Table)
Results and discussion
The demand for natural and sustainable skincare products has led to much research into the effectiveness and benefits of various natural skincare products. This discussion synthesises findings from several studies, shedding light on natural ingredients' incredible skin health effects that enhance skin health and reduce cosmetic concerns.
Natural Compounds: Effects on Hydration, Skin Firmness, and Pigmentation
This section delves into the effects of various natural compounds on skin hydration, firmness, and pigmentation. The natural ingredients we explore have shown promise in addressing these essential aspects of skincare. Table 1 summarises the different aspects studied and the corresponding articles that explored them. We present the main findings and limitations of each of these studies in the Supplementary Table. This overview will serve as a reference for readers seeking specific information about skincare, cosmetics, and the diverse natural ingredients and compounds assessed in the featured articles.
This extensive review of scientific studies on the effects of natural ingredients in cosmetic and skincare formulations reveals numerous promising findings and considerations across various categories, such as hydration, skin firmness, and pigmentation. These studies have illuminated the potential of natural compounds to impact skin health and aesthetics positively, but they have also highlighted several limitations that warrant attention.
| Table 1 - Summary of skin and cosmetic evaluations in scientific articles included in this review. |
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Hydration
Studies evaluating natural ingredients for skin hydration show promising results but highlight an essential difference between laboratory findings and practical applications. Notably, the potential benefits of natural ingredients such as Viola odorata extract, brown seaweed, and beeswax suggest that they can improve moisture and skin barrier function, but further research is needed to validate their efficacy, effectively addressing the usefulness of cosmetic formulations, long-term safety assessment and variability in individual practices and skin types.
Skin Firmness
Increased skin elasticity is a coveted goal in skin care and natural ingredients such as green tea extract and Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf essential oil has shown great potential. However, the limitations of these studies, including the short duration, small sample size, and lack of long-term replication studies, emphasise the need for more extensive studies to observe the safe and practical use of these compounds in skin care products.
Pigmentation
The review of natural compounds addressing pigmentation concerns highlights several promising ingredients, such as Jasmine rice panicle extract and rice water. While these findings show potential for skin lightening and anti-ageing, their small sample sizes and limited clinical evaluations call for further research. Additionally, seaweed compounds, natural Pterostilbene, and grape pomace extract demonstrate anti-pigmentation effects, but the absence of specific assays, quantitative data, and clinical trials underscores the need for more comprehensive assessments and broader applications.
Cumulative Evidence Strengthening Biological Factors
The analysed studies provide a comprehensive overview of the promising natural products for skin care products. From botanical extracts to essential oils, these natural sources harbor a wealth of bioactive compounds that contribute to their therapeutic efficacy. The findings highlight the beneficial effects of natural ingredients on skin physiology and appearance.
For example, a study by Sameer Ali et al. investigated the sunscreen and antioxidant properties of Viola odorata (sweet violet) flower extracts (12). The in vitro photo-protective potential of Viola odorata flowers extracts were investigated in three states (fresh, dried, frozen). Researchers tested different extracts of the flowers under other conditions (fresh, dried, frozen) and evaluated their antioxidant benefits. The study showed that in the summer, ethanolic extract from Viola odorata flowers has a potential of sun-protective properties, especially in fresh conditions. Although the spectrophotometric method was used in this study to determine SPF values in vitro, it should be noted that this method does not include UV filters commonly found in commercial sunscreens. The absence of a UV filter in this experimental design may result in SPF values that may have been overestimated compared to conventional sunscreens, so it is essential to acknowledge that this study draws attention focuses solely on the evaluation of the natural sun protection potential of the inner flower extract of Viola odorata.
While our scoping review focuses primarily on the positive effects of natural ingredients in skin care products, it is crucial to recognise that not all natural ingredients produce the expected results when used alone or in combination with other drugs. Our literature search found studies that reported no significant improvement in skin health or hydration when using certain natural products (13, 14).
Variability in results can be attributed to many factors, including differences in experimental design, sample characteristics, and specific chemicals. It is important to note that they are not all biological factors and can have the desired effect in any case, and their effectiveness may vary depending on specific skin care products and concentrations.
This emphasises the importance of critically examining existing literature, understanding the limitations of specific biological agents, and acknowledging that not all synthetic agents will demonstrate the expected benefits in all circumstances.
Harnessing the Potential of Natural Resources
A key theme from the studies reviewed is that natural ingredients provide a wide range of skincare benefits. Improved skin elasticity and hydration were reported, demonstrating the potential of these properties in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. The antioxidant properties of selected natural molecules are essential in combating oxidative stress and cellular ageing processes, positioning them as valuable tools in anti-ageing therapies.
One review article by Silva et al focuses on the Hypericum genus and its potential cosmetic applications (15). Researchers emphasise the presence of important secondary metabolites in Hypericum species, especially in Hypericum perforatum (St. John's Wort), which are associated with chemical and cosmetic properties. Studies look for enzymes, and these compounds' inhibitory, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities are details of interest in Hypericum. Despite significant progress in this area, the article highlights the need for further research into its bioactive compounds' mechanisms of action and safety. The study finds that a strategic partnership between research and development and cosmetic enterprises can facilitate making effective commercial products based on products derived from Hypericum. This example illustrates how natural products found in Hypericum species can be used for cosmetic purposes while highlighting the importance of continued research for product development.
Formulation and Delivery Strategies
Making skincare products using natural ingredients requires careful consideration to optimise the benefits. Encapsulation techniques such as lipid nanosystems chitosan microparticles have shown promise to improve skin penetration, stability, and controlled release of active drugs. These techniques alleviate complications associated with the adhesion of potentially irritating substances of essential oils and ensure controlled metabolite delivery, improving the formulations' overall efficacy.
For example, in a study by Ong et al., researchers aimed to develop a stable oil-water emulsion with pumpkin seed oil (PSO) as the main component (16). Vitamin E oil was also added to improve the quality of the formula. The study aimed to optimise cream formulation and evaluate its physical properties, antioxidant activity and shelf life. The researchers used ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography to determine the synergistic effects of vitamin E oil and PSO by analysing the α-tocopherol content. The optimal formulation, which contained 20% PSO, vitamin E oil and beeswax, was physically microbiologically stable. Moreover, the supplementation of vitamin E oil and PSO synergistically affected α-tocopherol levels. This example illustrates a process for formulating and providing natural ingredients, such as PSO and vitamin E oil, in a cream formulation for topical use to improve the product's efficacy and stability. This example demonstrates how natural ingredients such as pumpkin seed oil and vitamin E can be combined in a formulation to create a stable and effective skincare product.
Clinical Relevance and Applications
The clinical importance of this finding cannot be overstated, as it provides a platform for developing novel skin care solutions targeting a wide range of skin problems. Many natural products shine as they address skin ageing, UV damage, acne, inflammation and wound healing. From rice bran to grape stem phenolic compounds to turmeric rhizome extract, these ingredients exhibit a wide range of applications beyond mere cosmetic usefulness.
For example, a study by Kanlayavattanakul et al. highlights the potential of dried jasmine rice as a valuable natural ingredient for dealing with skin ageing (17). Studies evaluating its properties have revealed the benefits of adding jasmine rice extract to the skin. Dried jasmine rice contains many healthy properties known as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties. These factors are essential in inhibiting the effects of oxidative stress and inflammation that promote skin ageing. The study provides scientific evidence supporting the effectiveness of fermented jasmine rice in promoting skin health, including firmness, hydration, and reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. With its safety and skin-friendly characteristics, Jasmine rice panicle extract holds promise for formulating advanced anti-ageing skincare products that harness the power of nature.
The study findings have significant clinical relevance in skincare and anti-ageing treatments. Natural ingredients from fermented jasmine rice offer a safe, long-lasting alternative to traditional anti-ageing products. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of fermented jasmine rice may help reduce oxidative stress and skin ageing caused by inflammation, making it an attractive ingredient in skin care products to combat fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of ageing. Additionally, the safety features of the exfoliator make it attractive as a natural product for a wide range of skin types. By incorporating finely ground jasmine rice into skin care products such as creams, serums, and masks, the industry can harness its power to create compelling, natural products that give skin youthful and radiant looks.
Recognized Limitations and Future Strategies
It is essential to acknowledge the limitations of the reviewed studies. Variability in methodologies, sample sizes, and experimental design may result in differences in reported results. Despite the promising findings, further studies are needed to reveal the mechanisms underlying the observed biological effects on skin physiology. Rigorous standardised methods and controlled clinical trials are needed to establish a solid causal relationship between the use of natural products and the observed skin benefits.
Conclusion
This scoping review highlights the growing importance of natural ingredients in skin care products. The search for effective, safe and sustainable solutions has led to much research into the potential of natural compounds. Accumulating evidence from numerous studies has confirmed the incredible benefits of these ingredients in enhancing skin health and addressing cosmetic concerns. From the strengthening of various natural ingredients in therapeutics to their potential for application in skin care applications, studies have revealed a wide range of benefits of natural ingredients. Optimising loading methods for manufacturing and distributing these products increases stability and maintenance.
Furthermore, the therapeutic relevance of these findings is substantial, as natural products offer suitable methods for targeting a wide range of skin issues, from ageing to sunscreen. While acknowledging limitations and variability across studies, rigorous research methodologies and clinical trials are emphasised to establish robust causal relationships. The synthesis of findings from these studies provides a solid foundation for the skincare industry to innovate and formulate products that harness the potency of nature, catering to the ever-growing demand for effective and holistic skincare solutions.
Taking the insights from this scoping review, the cosmetics industry is poised to continue to innovate and provide consumers with nature-based solutions for their skincare needs. The scoping review underscores the inherent potential of nature's resources to develop effective and safe cosmetic products. However, a journey of exploration lies ahead to comprehend the scope of these natural ingredients fully. Optimisation of raw materials, optimisation of chemical processes, and addressing long-term safety considerations require careful attention. Armed with a comprehensive understanding of the potential benefits of natural products, the cosmetics industry is designed to develop groundbreaking skincare solutions that perfectly blend natural efficacy with rigorous scientific advancement.
Our research into the effects of natural products on skin hydration, elasticity, and pigmentation highlights many possibilities. However, the overall picture requires more detailed research, further clinical studies, and rigorous safety effectiveness evaluation. This scoping review reaffirms the importance of addressing these limitations and the power of natural ingredients in cosmetic and dermatological applications. The quest for effective, safe, and sustainable natural compounds in skincare is an ongoing journey that necessitates continued research and development to benefit both the cosmetic industry and consumers.
Author contributions
SG - Conceptualization; Methodology; Formal analysis; Investigation; Resources; Data Curation; Writing Original Draft and Visualisation; SG and IG Writing Review & Editing; IG - Funding Acquisition.
Funding
This work was supported by the project UIDB/00772/2020 (Doi:10.54499/UIDB/00772/2020), funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT).
Ethical statement
The authors state that the article does not require an ethics committee approval as it is a subject of comparison between theories and literature review.
Declaration of interest
The authors declare no conflict of interest.
Data sharing statement
Data supporting the findings and conclusions are available upon request from the corresponding author.
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